Hey, you crazy Funsters!
Here’s a little walkthrough of the STARFORCE NEO system in comparison with the STARFORCE PI, side-by-side.
Let’s see this bad-boy handle some choice NeoGeo Arcade Gaming Action!
Hey, you crazy Funsters!
Here’s a little walkthrough of the STARFORCE NEO system in comparison with the STARFORCE PI, side-by-side.
Let’s see this bad-boy handle some choice NeoGeo Arcade Gaming Action!
People are digging the SFNeo so much that I’m getting daily requests asking me to build and sell more! That’s very cool, and I’m flattered, but no. Building a system like this is kind of insane, costly and timeconsuming. Hopefully with this blog you’ll be able to get an impression of what it took to build it and give you some tips for your own project.
I found an old trashed Minitel 1 system about a year ago, and immediately thought the look was perfect for a mini arcade. A very distinct style from the 80s that didn’t look like a typical cabinet, yet still quite large, which allowed for some more interesting internals than just a Raspberry Pi. I was originally going to make a Hyperspin system in it, until I found the Neo Geo MV-1C motherboard, and saw that the dimensions would perfectly fit inside the case. After the Kickstarter campaign things settled down a bit, and I saw most of my time was spent talking to vendors, designers and production companies. Once the relevant contacts had been made roughly at the end of January, I could finally start on building my arcade system. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while, but building the STARFORCE PI finally gave me the confidence to pull it off.
The Build Idea
The question was simple: how much would it cost to have something similar to the SFP, but running original arcade hardware and not an emulation platform? I’ve seen some wonderful builds online, but anytime someone built an arcade system, it was either fully consolized or built into a Bartop resembling the original arcade. I wanted a small, all-in-one, standalone system that didn’t look like a cabinet rehash. In much the same vain as the SFP, I wanted it to look like its own system, clean and attractive. I started preparing a list of what I needed right after the Kickstarter campaign ended, as this build wouldn’t just be to contrast with the SFP, it would also aid to convince people of my capabilities to build solid and attractive game consoles that work great, and to show my dedication to the concept.
Phase 1: Buy the Gear
I already had the Minitel case and an 8 inch 480p screen in 4:3 aspect ratio I was planning to use for another project, but I had to first check whether the Neo Geo board would even fit. After going through the hardware manuals of all the boards, I found the MV-1C to match the size pretty well, and ordered it. Once I had this, and saw that with some slight cutting I could fit it, I decided to buy my other components, the Smallcab SuperGun, the SGL Scanline Generator, a scart-to-hdmi converter, a quiet yet powerful power supply, etc. (see a full component list at the bottom). Needless to say, this wasn’t cheap, and quickly ran into the hundreds of euros, so be mindful that you’re probably going to spend a lot more on your own build than just buying a normal AES or MVS system, and you’re going to invest a lot of personal time to get it right. I opted to switch MV-1C board for the MV-1B board, as this allowed me to sideload cartridges from the back, keeping the shell intact. I flipped it upside down, and this fitted beautifully, and was a real morale boost.
Phase 2: Test the Gear
An important factor was to make sure everything plays nicely, I used several different brands of hardware, and converting JAMMA to SCART to HDMI via a scanline generator may have some adverse effects. But luckily, this part was smooth as silk. Sure there were some connection issues, but the end result were crisp, vivid sprites on both the internal screen and external screen. All the parts seem to be in place, and I felt that the spacing in the Minitel would be adequate, so I would spend some considerable time simply thinking on how best to fit it all inside.
Phase 3: Make it Fit
This is where a little bit of considered hack-and-slash is needed: what do you keep and what do you cut? As long as the outside integrity of the case stays fine, anything on the inside is pretty much salvageable. But keep in mind to not cut parts away if it’s not necessary. I’ve used the internal structure or followed the existing logic of the case layout whenever I can, as the original case designers put quite a bit of thought in it. Use that.
After hacking parts out of the case, I had to reshape or rebuild parts of it. I used VACUUMFORMING techniques to build in some new parts, and with a relatively simple homebuilt vacuumforming setup (some wood, a hoover, a heat gun, plastic and something to hold the plastic) you can make virtually any shape you need. 3D printing is of course a little easier, but I don’t have one of those. I wanted to place the screen behind a rounded plastic window similar to the original CRT monitor, and so vacuumformed thermoplast plastic over the monitor, and cut it to fit the shell. This took a while to get right, but you’re left with a very nice integrated window that protects the new videoscreen.
I placed the PCBs around the main Neo Geo board, and made sure the cartridge slot at the back was nicely accessible. This meant very careful tooling with a multitool and some hard sanding. In fact, I sanded the crap out the entire things, just to get rid of small dings and such. I kept the general L-shape of the MV-1B board with the black ABS plastic cartridge holder, removed the casing of the scart-to-HDMI converter & power supply and screwed them to the back of the ABS cover. I stacked the scanline generator and SuperGun on the top of the MV-1B board, and made sure it had some space between them.
The audio came from two small Logitech speakers that I ripped apart and placed right behind the screen. I made some extra openings to make sure the sound came out well, and although it’s a budget speaker set, the sound is crisp and loud. I wired a 3.5mm audio jack in there for good measure, and plugged it into the SuperGun for arcade audio goodness.
Phase 4: Make it Work
Seems obvious right, but once everything is connected and you flip the switch, things still may not work perfectly. The audio was a pain in the ass to get working nicely, the screen kept flailing as well, and I burned, cut and shocked myself more than I care to remember. The HDMI splitter I bought also would need some finessing to get working, and the spacing was getting pretty tight.
I wanted to have Player 1 and 2 inputs in there, so you could play via the internal controls as player 1, but also through a Neo Geo controller. This meant buying some neogeo extension cables and sticking them at the back. I wanted both the power input and player 2 input to clear the cartridge so the user could exchange the cartridges without having to unplug the device or move the cables. Once I had the power button, scanline on/off button, player inputs and power input in place, and everything was linked up on the inside, I could work on the grueling SCART cable placements.
Scart output gives the nicest video quality on oldschool consoles, but are hideously large. Because I had a scart converter AND scanline generator in there, I needed to add two scart cables to fit in amongst the already crowded casing. A more technical minded person would’ve just soldered the connections straight to the board, but I wanted to keep the PCB modding to a minimum: no hacking of the PCB, no soldering directly on it, and screw everything in rather than hotglue it. This meant quite a bit more space was needed, but at least the parts were easily removed, and replaced if they break.
The thing I was struggling with on the STARFORCE PI was the easiest part of building the thing: the SEIMITSU controls. I used some flat 3mm plastic to cover the baseplate that would hold the Joystick, and made some large openings for the buttons. The buttons would be stuck into the second baseplate that would hold them in place, but could easily be removed to add a different placement of the buttons, or a different marquee. The best way to wire the buttons up would’ve been through bladeconnectors, but I didn’t have them at the time so I just soldered them straight onto the microswitches. It took me about an hour to connect them all up, and it worked like a charm!
The screen was a whole different story. The plastic screen I made had to be handled carefully, and placing the 8” screen behind it exactly would take a lot of trial and error. With some plastic, screws and hotglue gun I was able to make the screen integrated into the plastic window, and I could screw it into the bottom part of the enclosure. This meant it would stay solid, but could be removed if needed.
Phase 5: Make it Pretty
After taking the Minitel apart, sanding it completely, and removing all the internal components that are in the way, we can rebuild the outer casing a bit. As I mentioned before, vacuumforming was great to shape plastic parts into the spaces you want to, but once you hotglued all your new plastic parts in, placed the plugs and connectors into the holes at the back, you need to fill up the excess gaps to make the whole thing flush.
For this I used TAMIYA PUTTY basic blue to cover any unsightly scratches and holes. I wired everything up one last time to make sure it all worked fine, and then I started painting in the iconic two-tone Stormtrooper style.
Once the colors were done, I experimented with the controller baseplate: should it be single color, or transparent? I tried straight black, but soon felt the transparent look on the original STARFORCE PI gave a whole extra dimension to it, and adding your own colorful marquee underneath would give a professional finish. It takes a little longer, making sure the transparent plate fits nicely and doesn’t get scratched up, and needlepointing the holes into the photopaper marquee, but it was worth it.
In parallel to building the console, I also wanted a cartridge that fitted nicely with my new system. The NeoGeo MVS games were a cheap alternative to the AES version, but the cartridges were pretty ugly. So I bought an old, broked AES version of Fatal Fury, and a 161-in-1 Yellow Multicart, and jazzed it up a bit. One problem with these carts is that they might get a bit hot, so I added an extra BeQuiet! 80mm ventilator running at 12volt in there, which seems to do the job very well.
I finally spent about 750 euro for the set I presented here, but besides that I spent another 150 euros on parts I ended up not using for this project (a NeoGeo MV-1C board, fan, stickers, extensions, and even a Minitel which I partially melted with my heatgun). I spread the cost over several months, but it’s still quite a bit of money.
What could’ve been cheaper? You’ll see in the components list below I went for some premium gear, especially the joystick, buttons and power. I think if you’re building an MVS with less space restrictions, you can get some cheaper internals, and if you’re more technically minded, you could just wire the scart connections directly to the board. You could also skip the SEIMITSU brand joystick and buttons, and go for a more generic brand. I do notice a significant difference, especially in the buttons, as they are silent padded buttons. I prefer it to be a bit more clicky, but playing the games definitely adds speed to your responses. Also, I had to buy essentials like solder, a desoldering pump, a larger gluegun, wires, screws, paint, all that stuff, so if you’re a tinkerer, it’s likely you have a lot of this laying around.
What could I have done better? I really wanted to have a springloaded cartridge door, so it’s all flush and closed when there’s no cartridge in there. Unfortunately, there was no space for this inside, and would have weakened the structure at the back. It’s cool though, the MVS is made to have a game slotted in there at all time anyway, and it doesn’t protrude so much at the back that it gets in the way. I also fumbled with the audio a lot, so now the 3.5mm audio output has an extra volume control at the bottom, but it’s a detail (but it bugs me). I was particularly happy with the flush plastic window in front of the LCD screen, but this took a good amount of trial and error to get right.
And so we end up with the STARFORCE NEO – A Neo Geo Mini Videogame System with Gamepack and extra Player 2 controller, ready to rock your nostalgic heart! I’ve been searching the web for small NeoGeo MVS system, but so far I’m pretty sure that my version is the smallest all-in-one MVS tabletop in the world! A bold claim, and not technically correct when you consider Ben Heck’s MVS handheld. It took me roughly 4 months to build (evenings, weekends) and about 600 euro to build (with an additional 150 euro for the Multicart conversion and extra NeoGeo controller). It was a hell of a job, but it was totally worth it.
Two take-home messages:
• Do not rush the job: Seriously, I spent as much hours THINKING about the system, as I did building it. How to fit ports, components, when to work on what aspect, measure everything twice. I know it’s easy to see the finished product and think that I just stuffed a lot of existing gear in there, but there is a lot of trial and error to find the right solutions, especially when you’re working with limited space and with a novel approach.
• Get ready to pay: These builds aren’t cheap. Buying separate component and putting it together, the small extra bits you have to buy (wires, heatsinks, connectors, ports, paint, etc) it all adds up. Don’t do this as an easy or cheap alternative, do this only if you can make something better than you can buy.
Thanks for all the positive feedback, make sure to check out the videos and pictures, and support us in building more spectacular systems by joining the STARFORCE PI limited release pre-order in the near future!
Marcel J. de Haan
SFP Development Team
Components List + Prices (€):
SmallCab Supplies – 100.10 – Smallcab.net
– [shipping] – 8.00
– SEIMITSU Joystick – 25.00
– SEIMITSU Buttons – 13.20
– SmallCab SuperGun – 42.90
– JAMMA Extension – 9.90
– PCB Spacers – 1.10
NeoGeo MVS-M1B Board – 83.89 – eBay
BeQuiet! ATX PowerSupply – 65.99 – Amazon
LCD Screen 800×600 – 68.60 – eBay
Scanline Generator – 40.08 – ArcadeForge.net
Scart to hdmi – 40.00 – Amazon
Minitel 1 – 39.50 – LeBoncoin
Paint – 35.80 – local
NeoGeo Extension 2x – 28.00 – eBay
Logitech Speakers – 24.00 – Amazon
BeQuiet Fan – 21.00 – Amazon
Scart to scart – 6.54 – eBay
PC Power Extension – 5.20 – eBay
Power Wiring 18 AWG – 2.20 – eBay
Potentiometers – 6.98 – eBay
Spacers for system – 6.79 – eBay
ATX 24 pin plug x 2 – 3.75 – eBay
HDMI 1 to 2 Split – 3.23 – eBay
HDMI Cables – 2.80 – eBay
Pushbutton Caps – 2.73 – eBay
Scart to scart – 4.50 – eBay
Wires – 2.90 – eBay
Power Jacks – 1.90 – eBay
Molex Splitter 2x – 1.39 – eBay
Total – 601.87
MVS Game 161-1 – 88.50 – LeBoncoin
AES Game Fatal Fury – 20.00 – LeBoncoin
Org. NeoGeo Controller – 50.19 – eBay
Total – 158.69
Neo Geo MVS (1990) was the one system to beat them all! I grew up with SEGA’s Master System and Mega Drive, but my cousin had a Neo Geo AES with Magician Lord. I played that game only six minutes when I was 10 years old, and that memory has stuck with me forever. Now, to relive that time with the STARFORCE NEO (2016)!
Allright, so the STARFORCE NEO works – let’s play some games!
Metal Slug (1996) No one quite does Run & Gun games like Nazca does, specifically through their excellent Metal Slug series. The first episode of the franchise still stands as the most shining example of the 16-bit platformer era, and will remain my favorite game of the system.
Top Hunter (1994) I bought an MVS in my 20s and this game was one of four games I had for it, and easily my favorite, second only to Metal Slug. The graphics are beautiful and the two-player mode is so much fun, it’s a bit of a goofy concept to get into, but really worth it.
Eightman (1991) Based on a 1963 manga, you are a quick-running cyborg superhero that has to blast his way through beat’m up mayhem! It’s a bit stale, but I enjoyed it.
Shock Trooper 2nd Squad (1998) Not really like the first version of the game, still a great mix of destruction and cartoon run & gun violence. Just a solid bit of fun!
Mutation Nation (1991) Neo Geo is classically known for its fighting games, but I’ve always been more interested in the platformer games. Mutation Nation is another beat’em up game that is great fun with some sweet action!
Viewpoint (1992) An isometric shooter game that I actually only got into with the STARFORCE NEO. It’s really challenging, but really quite spectacular, and the music is amazing!
Blazing Star (1998) The killer sequel to Pulstar borrows from the iconic R-Type with updated sprites, brief anime, CGI cutscenes and awesome Engrish voice samples. My favorite scrolling shooter video on the system!
And those were some of my favorite games on the Neo Geo. The excellent multicart of course holds another 90 cool games to play, but is missing some choice games like Magician Lord. Still, it’s a pretty complete experience on a nice little tabletop.
In parallel to working on a limited release run of the STARFORCE PI, I decided to explore the possibility of building a Neo Geo MVS into the smallest and lightest form factor possible. This was to compare actual Neo Geo games on original hardware with the more budget friendly emulated experience of the SFP. After roughly 4 months of working, tinkering, cutting, thinking and cursing I finished a fully functional mini Neo Geo MVS system: The STARFORCE NEO All-in-One System.
Built inside a converted 1982 Minitel 1 case, the system features an original SNK MV-1B motherboard which means the games aren’t emulated, authentic Seimitsu buttons and joystick for single player action, two additional Neo Geo compatible controller input ports at the back and all of the same features as SNK’s classic Neo Geo arcade cabinets.
The internal monitor is a crisp 8″ LCD screen with 4:3 aspect ratio behind a glossy protective window. The system pumps its SCART signal via a scanline generator and shoots 480p resolution sprites onto the internal display. Additionally, an HDMI-out port is hidden on the bottom for external head-to-head arcade combat on the big screen!
Inside the matte two-tone Stormtrooper exterior lies a 1.2Watt dual stereo speaker system by Logitech, delivering an impressive deep sound, with the option to connect external audio capture devices or headphones through the 3.5mm audio jack.
Neo Geo MVS cartridges simply slot in the back, and by placing the power input port & player 2 controller input port to the sides, games can be changed without having to unplug the system.
The STARFORCE NEO All-in-One system comes with an original Neo Geo Gamepad for two-player action and the SFNeo MVS MultiCart in AES shell, which features 97 classic original Neo Geo titles. The entire build cost around €600, using original and premium components, with a further €150 euro for the extra controller and multicart.
It turned out quite spectacular, but it was a hell of a job to get right, and pretty expensive. I had to sell about half of my completed Neo Geo Pocket Color collection to finance it, but ultimately, it was totally worth it.
Marcel J. de Haan
SFP Development Team
Ola Fellow Spritelovers,
It’s been a while since I updated on the SFP continuation post Kickstarter 2015, and feel like it’s time to share where we are. At the beginning of this year we set out to start translating the SFP models into a flexible standardized format which could be used in a number of production procedures. This requires a rather heavy personal investment of roughly 4000-5000 euro for the design + prototype samples, but that’s a fair initial commitment on my side, and will hopefully aid in your decision to support us via a pre-order of this kick-ass little device when it’s ready for production.
Before this, we have to know whether we can produce 50-100 cases relatively cheaply (30-35 euro per case at the most) and this is where I’ve landed in a Catch 22.
I need a CAD model to get a quote, I need a quote to justify the cost of developing a CAD model. If I spend that money for a model, and it turns out there’s no way for me to produce the cases for under 50 euros, I’ve lost more than I can afford on a researcher’s pay. A few solutions came up (laser sintering, cnc milling) but generally companies were unwilling to ballpark a price, or they flat-out said it couldn’t be done for that price. Our final refuge would be soft tooling, specifically designed to have a low-cost, low-volume production turn-over. I’m waiting on replies from several companies on this, but this is why things have gone slowly. We have three production options: cheap, fast and good – choose two. Barring some insane great-aunt leaving me a fortune, we’re stuck with cheap & good.
So that’s our bottleneck right now. On the plus side, we’ve increased our vendor pool, and have made some valuable contacts in China and Korea for wholesale components, which is good. Specifically in Korea and Japan this could work immensely well, but we need a physical proof-of-concept to convince companies to commit. Our engineer Hartmut is busy working on his own Kickstarter and other projects, but still provides me with great feedback and conversations.
While I’m waiting for the information from different parties on the SFP cases and soft tooling, I’ve spent what little personal time I have left on the STARFORCE NEO! Now this is something that’s going to blow you away, if I can suspend humility for a second 😛 I will finish the case & hardware components at the end of next week, put it all together and test it. Then I just need to do some careful cosmetics and share it with you guys in full HD video- & photographic glory!
If you have any comments, suggestions or feedback, don’t hesitate to drop something below, or on facebook or twitter. Forums and conversation on social media have definitely contributed to the shape and direction of the SFP, so keep’m coming!
I finally received my physical copy of RetroGamer Magazine today, in which we’ve got our little arcade bad-boy featured on page 6-7! Very cool, and very exciting to see. Reading killer gaming magazines like Mean Machines in the 90s was the only way for me to get the latest reviews, gamenews, cheats and hints, and a fun way to essentially read sponsored gaming content.
But, it was a monthly treat that I could experience again with RetroGamer Magazine, with the added kick of seeying our own kick-ass STARFORCE PI. Hopefully we can repeat this again in the future with new builds and production devices. Get your own copy here, and read the article here!
Mean Machine – Ma main Mag of the 90s!
Good Times Retronions! So far I’ve burned myself twice with a soldering iron and melted part of the case, so I took a break and made something a little easier, but with a great potential for creativity: the SFNeo Multicart. I bought a 161-in-1 MVS Multicart in screaming yellow shell, and slammed it into a beat-up Fatal Fury Special AES cart with soft box.
I altered and refurbished the shell to fit the MVS PCB, added new inserts and label, and finished with a nice logo for the new console. It’s pretty sweet! The 161 in 1 is bull though, because there are 97 actual games on there and the rest are all hacks of these games (infinite lives, continues, what have you). But still, it has a lotta good games and it runs well on the M1B board.
Now we’re continuing with building the actual console to fit this bad-boy in 🙂